General Tuning Info
I think that the best info that you can get comes from Easton Archery
Keep in mind that all the tuning methods that are available WILL NOT work if:
1.  There is rest interference with the fletch and/or shaft

2.  You are excessively torqueing the bow

3.  You are "punching" the release

4.  You are grabbing at the bow upon the shot

5.  The draw length is incorrect (usually, too long)

6.  The arrow is grossly under/over spined and/or crooked

7.  The string is slapping your arm/armguard or clothing

8.  The nocks are too tight/loose or misaligned
Strings and cables seem to last longer and are more consistent if the are 2 twists per inch in them.
A fall away rest is the most forgiving type of rest for release shooters.
Use a rubber tube instead of a solid cable/cord fto activate the rest. A cord with a spring may also be better than an all cable/cord set up
Maximum support is required for maximum accuracy.  Adjust the cord/tube until you have rest interference. You can do this by turning the nock so that you WILL HAVE interference. Then adjust the cord/tube so that there is just barely no interference. This will give maximum support and accuracy. This DOES NOT mean that other styles of rests will not work well. This is for absolute maximum accuracy. Many will not see any difference..

If you are having problems tuning your bow make sure that the idler wheel is pointing at the bottom cam AT FULL DRAW. This will probably require help of a buddy.
For a 2 cam bow they cams should be poined at each other AT FULL DRAW. If there is a BIG difference between the non draw position and the full draw position you may want to split the difference.

Tiller Tuning: I don't think that it makes the bow more accurate per se. What it does do is change the angle of the riser. This makes small changes to the draw length which can make you more accurate.
While at full draw, both of your forearms should be parallel (or close) to the arrow for maximum accuracy. If your draw forearm/elbow is in a lower position, the draw length is TOO LONG. Alternatively you may need to shorten the distance between the head of your release and where it is held/attached to your hand.
Leaning against the string or putting pressure against the string with your face will make tuning and accuracy much more difficult to achieve.
The containment types of rests are great for bowhunting but for maximum accuracy I'll stick with the drop away

Easton Tuning Guide
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